My Tribute to Tuscher Caffe

As 2023 comes to an end, so we must say arrivederci to Tuscher Caffe, Cortona. For so many of us, it leaves a vacancy, not only in the middle of Via Nazionale, but also as our “go-to” gathering place. Like the song from Cheers, “Sometimes you want to go where everybody knows your name, and they’re always glad you came…” And that’s how it always was at Tuscher, plus of course, a hug or kiss and a warm smile.

For Len and me, Tuscher was many things besides a great bar and caffe. Tuscher was the place we’d have breakfast or lunch, drinks before dinner, meet friends or make new ones, and bring any visiting guests, except on Monday.

Tuscher was a family business, (with roots in Foiano) and its heart and soul were Daniela and Massimo. Although they will be sorely missed, we know they will be successful in whatever they choose to pursue. So rather that focus on “how sad”, I hope you find this tribute to be a walk down memory lane of some of the best times and heartiest laughs so many of us shared together. 

It was actually our daughter Benita who introduced us to Tuscher after checking it out with a friend.

And to paraphrase Bogie (Casablanca), I must say it was truly the beginning of a beautiful friendship. 

Lots of relatives came to visit… 

and so many friends too.

And then, there are all those we met, because at Tuscher, no one was ever a stranger.

Sometimes the festivities were off campus, come rain or shine!

Dinners,

olive picking,

and  big celebrations too.

There were so many parties…

birthdays,

anniversaries,

and more birthdays.

But we really never needed a reason to go to Tuscher… good times were always on the menu!

And so to the Olivieri family, Niccolo, Edoardo, and especially Dani and Massimo, thank you for your love and friendship and for giving us this very special and unique gathering place. While Tuscher may be gone, the memories we and so many have made with you will last a lifetime.

We wish each of you great success, wherever the road may take you.  

Happy New Year to all!

May your 2024 be filled with peace,

good health

and unexpected  adventures. 

Ciao and abbracci!
Judy

 

Please feel free to share a memory in the comment section. (Apologies if I didn’t have your picture!)

 

 

 

Moulin Rouge Paris!

On April 6, Len and I arrived in Paris. We had been there before, but this time I was particularly inspired to follow “footsteps” of my maternal grandparents, Salvatore and Serafina. They had travelled through Italy from south to north then took a “fast” train to Paris.

Similar to my paternal grandfather, Alexander, my maternal grandfather, Salvatore, also wrote wonderfully detailed and interesting letters of their journeys, addressed to my mother and her siblings, and some fortunately passed on to me.

They arrived in Paris from Italy by train. It was August, 1952, he in his 60’s, she in her 50’s. Their love of life, sense of adventure, and openness  to new experiences continues to amaze and inspire me in my travels and writing. And this is what led me to the Moulin Rouge.

“Took  in the high  spots by day, then joined an excursion tour to see Paree by night. Boy oh Boy! what we saw of Paree after sundown was simply torrid. Mother let out a yell when one of the dancers in the second cabaret discarded her last vestige that had everybody there turning around and laughing. The fourth and last of the cabarets visited on the excursion tour, the Tabarini, was of such magnificence and class that even though someone might  construe the  show as indecent, I can honestly call it artistic.”

Salvatore Ferrara letter

With this in mind, we opted for the dinner and show. Dinner guests arrive at 7 p.m. for the 9 p.m. show. A dress code is enforced.

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There are two French gourmet meal choices to select from in advance, each three courses with wine or champaign. The dinner is served with incredible precision, yet we never felt rushed even though hundreds were being seated and served. The room was incredible, with so much to see in every direction.

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An orchestra and two singers accompany the diners and during this time, photos are still permitted.

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Some interesting facts:

• Moulin Rouge, meaning Red Mill, was founded in 1889 as an extraordinary cabaret by Joseph Oller and Charles Zidler.  Its nickname was, “Le Premier Palais des Femmes” (The First Palace of Women.)
• Toulouse-Lautrec immortalized its dancers in his posters.
• 10 years after a disastrous fire destroyed the theatre in 1915, it was rebuilt.
• The theatre seats 850 guests per performance.
• The current show is called Feerie, runs nightly at 9 and 11 PM every day.
• The team consists of 400 people, 100 artists, 18 dressers and 60 dancers. Female dancers are a minimum of 5.9”, male 6’1”.
• Dancers must be trained in classical dance and attend weekly classes.
• Three casting sessions are held annually where 600 dancers complete  for as few as two vacancies.
• Each show requires 1000 outfits, crafted in workshops that have been used for years.
• Each dancer makes 10-15 costume changes per show in roughly 90 seconds and returns to the stage.
• Approximately 800 pairs of shoes in various  sizes are required.
• The Moulin Rouge is still considered one of Paris’ best known tourist attractions.

At precisely 9 p.m., ALL LIGHTS OUT and the performance begins. Here’s a short link if curious:https://youtu.be/xw9__-2CSXc

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Was it worth it?  We certainly thought so. The multi-level artistic facility, hundreds of small red glowing table lamps, the sheer spectacle of talented dancers, ornate intricate costuming, incredible precision on and off stage, and best of all, imagining my grandparents there so many years ago, all made for a once in a lifetime most memorable experience.

Ciao,
Judy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Happy New Year/Buon Anno 2022!

Just in case you didn’t get your 2021 New Year’s Eve invitation to Lenny’s Bar for extended aperitivo, (on second thought, I was the only one invited as I’m the cook!), here’s a brief summary…

Guests: Yours truly!

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First Plate: Burrata with roasted grape tomatoes and Italian Olive Oil

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Second Plate: Steamed artichokes with maple champaign mustard sauce

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Third Plate: Hand made salmon patties with roasted mini peppers

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After dinner digestivo/dessert: Grasshopper on Ice

Entertainment: “Visited” with several family members and friends throughout the night, listened to our favorite playlist, and at the stroke of midnight, heard the familiar booming as we watched Chicago’s fireworks through the fog!

And that’s a wrap, except to wish each of you and yours
a most happy, healthy and safe 2022!

Ciao,
Judy

HAPPY 50th CAMPERS!

50 years ago yesterday, over 200 very curious and most adventurous students from across the U.S. landed in Rome for the beginning of a year like no other – destination:

Loyola’s Rome Center was started in 1962. At that time, it was the largest American study program offered by a U.S. university in Europe enrolling Loyola students as well as students from 75 other U.S. colleges and universities, of which I was one.

While it is hard to imagine we arrived 50 years ago, it is so easy to remember the most incredible year of our lives. Quickly becoming a family of “campers”,  we learned, laughed, loved and lived together. Oh how we lived!

Most of us arrived at age 20, having never been to a foreign country, nor away from home for more than a semester. There was no internet, no wifi, no cell phones, no pc’s, etc. But we adapted quickly. What we did have was one public payphone in the hall, mail slots, a beautiful campus, an attentive staff, engaged professors, and most of all, each other.

Yes, we actually did attend class with some very excellent professors, but so very much of what we remember from that year comes from outside the classroom, as they said it would.

We quickly learned how to get around in Italy…

and explore some of her greatest treasures.

We learned to navigate by train, and expect nothing to happen as scheduled.

On holidays, we even had extra time to explore far away destinations.

We learned of the unspeakable horrors of war…

and saw monuments dedicated to victory.

We rushed to the Vatican on 5/22/72 in the hope that the Pieta had not suffered grave damage at the hand of a madman. 

When not studying or traveling, we also trained well and competed!

We learned that every kid in Italy plays soccer,

and that some of then best “food” can be bought at the market.

At Christmastime, we sponsored a party for children from a local orphanage, doing much more for us than they could imagine.

At the end of our year together, we published a wonderful yearbook and I was delighted to be one of the photographers. All of the above photos are from that book, so kudos to the following people:

 

Finally, 10 years ago, Loyola Rome celebrated its 50th anniversary in Chicago and all classes were invited to attend. It was our group’s 40th anniversary, and as you can see, friendships are still going strong.

To the family of “71-72 campers”,  indeed we did learn, laugh, love and live together. Oh how we lived! 

Judy

Happy Birthday Len!

Len’s Birthday Journal:

We started the day with a cappuccino in Cortona, then headed to the small town of Magione in the Perugia region for a most enjoyable lunch. Being that it is nearly 100° and crowded in Cortona, we decided to take the lovely drive to Ristorante Da Massimo, situated above Lake Trasimeno. The roads weren’t crowded, the views along the winding roads were lovely, and the food – well, Massimo certainly has made an art of preparing fresh seafood.

Great Food!
We shared two antipasti di mare, some hot and some cold, and seemingly never ending. Unfortunately, I’m a bit out of practice at remembering to photograph the gastronomical delights, but among them were salmon, octopus, seafood salad, shrimp salad, mussels, clams, scallops, and these mini sea snails. 

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We were first introduced to this wonderful restaurant by dear friends Susan and Ray, and they were definitely on our minds. In fact, that first time, Susan and I ordered the same orata (white fish), but I ordered mine grilled and she ordered with potatoes. I never forgot!

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Given that we still had a dinner ahead, we opted to share one piece of cheesecake with fresh berries and freshly whipped cream. 

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Great Friends!
After an afternoon nap, (it’s what one does, of course!), we met friends at Tuscher for some masked hugs and a Prosecco toast to Len.

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Great Views! We departed around 8 for dinner at Ristorante Tonino and were welcomed by a gentle breeze and incredible views.

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Food was good too…

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As we ate, the sky changed colors and the sun and slender crescent moon put on a splendid show.

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On the way home, we bumped into Ivan and Massimo, a fun ending for a pretty perfect birthday!

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Tanti Auguri, Leonardo, per un buon compleanno! Ti amo!

Judy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

IMPORTANT UPDATES!

OF HIGH IMPORTANCE:

Several people have written to ask me more about what is needed to travel to Italy. Speaking specifically for Americans, Italy requires you to complete the EU Digital Passenger Locator Form (dPLF) prior to boarding, available via your airline or online. This is NOT in place of a Vaccination card, rather it is used as necessary for contact tracing. (Probably a similar requirement for others, but ALL should check latest requirements before any departure.) 

What has been confusing in the last few days is what is required to enter restaurants, cultural places, etc. For Italians, it’s the green card, but so far, only those vaccinated in Italy receive one. Per several journals, including this description found in The Local it and updated August 5, things have become a bit clearer:

“People who have proof of Covid-19 vaccination, testing or recovery from one of five countries outside the European Union will be able to use it as a health passport in Italy, the Italian government has confirmed.

As Italy prepares to extend the public spaces where a so-called ‘green pass’ is required, the government has given its first indications about how visitors from non-EU countries can access the scheme.Travellers from any country in the EU or Schengen Zone can already use their national certificates in Italy as they would at home. In its latest ordinance of July 29th, the Italian Health Ministry confirmed that documents issued by health authorities in any of the following countries would also be accepted in Italy:

• Canada
• Israel
• Japan
• United Kingdom (including England, Scotland, Wales, Northern Ireland, Gibraltar, the Isle of Man, the Channel Islands and British military bases on Cyprus)
• United States of America

Certificates can be shown in digital or paper format, the Ministry said, without giving further details.

While visitors from Canada, Israel, Japan and the US can already use health certificates issued in their own countries to avoid quarantine in Italy, the Italian government has separate restrictions on the UK that oblige travellers to self-isolate for five days on arrival.” (The Local it)

Last night, we saw restaurants accepting VAX cards for indoor dining, so this seems to be working.

A Correction: Thanks to an astute friend who questioned my math: the number of days since our arrival was 582, not 947! (one year too many!)

Finally, street dining last night a la Cortona!

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Ciao,

Judy

 

 

 

Cortona at Last!

After 947 days, we have finally returned to Cortona and my thoughts can be summed up in this quote by Stephen King: “Sooner or later, everything old is new again.” (Author look-up required). For me, new is not the sights, sounds and smells of Italy, rather the learning of current mores, i.e., the new customs, conventions and the new ways of doing things with the pandemic.

Tuscany is currently classified as a “white” zone, meaning it has the least restrictions. Masks do not have to be worn outdoors, except in crowded areas, although many still wear them.  As of yesterday, however, certain activities like indoor dining, leisure venues and cultural sites will only be available to those with a Certificazione Verde, (green pass) or as in our case, (we think) a Passenger Locator Form. (Some of the logistics are still not clear.) Both of these show digital proof of either vaccination status, recent negative test results, or recovery.

As for Cortona proper, we were surprised to find the streets alive with tourists, mostly from the north. Families from The Netherlands, Denmark and Belgium are enjoying the sights and sounds of Cortona, and especially the bars, cafes and restaurants. Nary a table is available without a reservation – finally some great news for the local establishments. Most dining is outdoors as the town has made extra space accommodations, including closing some street traffic on the weekends. So, although the streets are not packed as usual in August, there are thankfully enough people to boost the local economy a bit.

Seeing old friends/acquaintances is interesting – making a split second decision on a huge “welcome back hug” or going the safer “happy to see you elbow bump”?

Ordering is interesting – Do I enter to order a cappuccino or to pay? (Answer: no, yes, and it depends!)

There’s still a short line up at the in-town grocers, pharmacies, etc., but given their size, that’s just fine in my book. The reality is, while we personally jumped at the chance to be vaccinated, not all did the same. 

Our flights were long as we needed to travel Chicago – Dallas – Rome, but no snags along the way, including at FCO. In fact, it was probably our fastest exit with checked baggage. I suspect this was due to many fewer travelers arriving from the US and and Canada. 

We were touch and go until the very end, but are happy to be here after missing our last three trips. And given our jet lag time differences, we even manage to find outdoor tables when needed.  

And then of course, some things never change.

Few things can say Welcome Back more than this:

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or this!

Ciao for now,
Judy

Note: If you are planning a trip to Italy, or the EU, be sure to check the latest travel requirements as they change often.

 

 

 

 

 

Art on the Lake

Although I haven’t been posting much, I haven’t been bored. Each day brings different views. This was today…

After a lovely walk through the park,

an early aperitivo on the balcony gave us

an art show on the lake…

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Click to enlarge.

Ciao! 
Judy

 

Storm Postscript

With thanks to the Beatles, and in particular George Harrison, for the lyrics that seem so appropriate – though a bit out of order here…

Here Comes The Sun*

“Little darling, I feel that ice is slowing melting” …
(yesterday morning)

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“Little darling, it feels like years since it’s been clear”
(last evening, with the moon)

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Little darling, the smiles returning to the faces…
(this morning)

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Here comes the sun do, do, do
Here comes the sun 
And I say it’s all right
(Today!)

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Are you singing along?
As George would probably say, “…it’s all right!“

Ciao,
Judy

Thanks to George Harrison, songwriter, for the inspiration.
*Here Comes The Sun lyrics © Harrisongs Ltd.

 

Day 1: After the Storm

At 11:15 last night, the view looked like this. Clear roads, howling winds, and large rolling waves.

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With little traffic, the salt trucks were moving quickly.

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Then the morning came, and truth be told, I was a bit disappointed when I peered out our west-facing bedroom window. The snow was negligible after all the hype. But when I entered the east-facing living area, well, it was quite a different story. The lake was like an ocean, with 8-15 feet rollers. There was even an “iceberg” forming at the curve!

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Needless to say, it was mesmerizing, even in total monotone.

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And then there’s always the “adventurous” type…

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It’s been fascinating watching the “iceberg” grow as the waves splashed upon it all day.

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The forecast is for continued snow through the night. Who knows what tomorrow will bring, but I’ll let you know. And for those of you who live a bit further from the lake, I did hear you had a bunch of shoveling to do. Stay warm and safe. As you already know, the snow is quite heavy!

Ciao,
Judy